Showing posts with label Lake Atitlán. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lake Atitlán. Show all posts

Friday, November 11, 2011

Moses and Indian Nose

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“We can start at 5am or 6am, though some people do it as early as 3am to see the sunrise,” our guide Moses suggested for starting our hike up Indian Nose, one of the best views of Atitlan and the surrounding area. Our late night jam session had resulted in a later start, something I was beginning to regret as we cut an aggressive path straight up the steep walls of Indian Nose. Every time the sun shined onto the trail, we would break out in an intense sweat, pausing to rest every 10 minutes or so. After a steady climb of a couple miles, we reached the spine of the mountain range and proceeded to the nose.

Moses was one of the best guides I’ve ever met. We had instinctually shooed him away when he first approached us after landing at the boat dock; an instinct I’ve had anywhere when first arriving to a new locale. He hooked us up with a great hostel and kayaks and we were more than pleased to have him on the Indian Nose trek. Though fluent in English, Maya and several other language, he firmly stuck to Spanish with us, something that is firmly appreciated with anyone who is learning or looking to practice. A former coffee plantation worker, he gave us a rundown of the harvesting process on our ascent and was full of interesting quips and jokes along the way. At a rough point in the trail I requested that he use his powers to part the bushes, to which he responded “only if brother Jeremiah is here to help lead us.”
I’ll let the view speak for itself, but upon arrival, Moses asked us if we wanted to learn some Maya. We surprised him with the basic “Mahk Diosh,” (thank you) and he seemed pretty pleased that we had even gone that far to remember Maya. Afterwards we cruised by the village of Santa Clara and were treated to a spectacular market scene.

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Lago del Paraiso

 If Lake Atitlán truly is paradise, then San Pedro is your gateway to it. There are several small pueblos lining the magnificent Lake Atitlán, which is ringed itself by several volcanoes and steep cliffs, owed to its gradual creation by means of volcanic eruptions and collapses. Low prices, friendly locals and a great vibe are what make San Pedro the go-to spot for backpackers.

We intended to go to Zoolah, the largest Israeli-owned hostel which was booked up, so we ended up at Pinnochio, a locally owned hostel/hostel with privates for only $12 a night. The interactions with the locals were a definite highlight. Not only did we learn several words in Maya (schooled by a sassy 10 year old working her parents corner store), but also that there are actually several different Mayan dialects spoken around the lake.The large number of Expats living in San Pedro means great asian-influenced food is available at affordable prices; I had excellent Pad Thai and Green Curry dishes for under $7. The local grocery store boasts the largest variety of Asian spices and sauces I’ve seen in one place anywhere in Latin America. 
We began our first day by renting kayaks and paddling across to San Marcos, an even smaller pueblo famous for its yoga and meditation retreats. There was also a large platform to go cliff diving off of, though Jeremiah pointed out that the drop was much less dramatic, due to the fact that the lake had risen 15 feet this year alone. We finished off the day with beers and a sing-along jam session, already feeling we could stay there an eternity.